Tidbits from Tea Country

I’m sitting on the balcony of my waterfall villa; a grandiose name for what would more accurately be called a cabin, and spread before me are acres and acres of tea plantations and forests, culminating in mountain peaks hidden by low clouds holding hope of a much-needed rain shower.  From the next hill over the jubilant melodies from a Hindu temple loudspeaker echo throughout the valley. An occasional spat between what I presume are street dogs sends yelps and growls up into the air occasionally; there is some kind of cicada-like buzz that comes and goes with the very pleasant high-country cool breeze, and birds are chirping everywhere. The low, vibrating hum of the waterfalls for which this cabin/villa was named rumbles from deep in the valley and occasionally a bird call so different from others draws my attention as my eyes scan feverishly through the tree branches looking for the little soloist before they zip away. A train whistle sounds and it’s as if all of nature holds it’s breath for a few seconds while the train barrels through, letting a slow exhale as the train curves around in to the next valley over and the peaks block any further disruption, at least until the next train.

It’s a welcome break from the city.  Colombo is, objectively, a great place to live, but clean air and being surrounded by greenery has a way of reviving my weary heart better than anything else can.

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We moved from South Africa to Sri Lanka almost a year ago now, which seems simultaneously insanely short and also like we’ve lived here for ages. And I’ve struggled to write for so many reasons… my story is not just my story anymore. People can be cruel. The internet can be a horrible place, and my mental health and physical safety are of increasing importance as I decide who and how I’m putting myself out into the world. But I’ve missed it, this is my art; working with the words, massaging them until they express just exactly what I want them to express, it releases something in me that I feel I’ve been missing.  And also? When I was home this summer visiting family in the States, I was reminded through their questioning that my life is one of curiosity and adventure and I do want to share that with those who want to join me here.  So, let us begin… again.

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I’m here in tea country for a week of site visits; visiting schools and communities where we intend to place Volunteers.  Gideon and Jay are keeping each other company back home; Jay always gets clingy when he sees my suitcase come out.  As we drove up into the high country, I kept exclaiming, probably irritatingly so, to my colleagues about how it just kept getting more and more beautiful the higher up and further in we drove.  I feel more alive out here, somehow, but really, travel of any kind does that for me. The anticipation and excitement that comes with exploring a new place is, actually, my favorite thing in the world, alongside Lake Hubert in summer. Thanks for joining me on the way.

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Sri Lankan food, as a whole, is delicious; the liberal use of warming spices like turmeric, cardamom, and cumin, alongside coconut milk and chilis leads to a really lovely spicy, sweet, salty combination and a variety of textures, which is quite enjoyable overall, if my mouth isn’t actually on fire. My spice tolerance has definitely increased since being here, and most of the time my digestive system can handle it.

The place we are staying in offers an American breakfast, and while I do love a good Sri Lankan breakfast, I’m taking them up on their offer of eggs and toast as lunch will most certainly be a very spicy curry and rice. So far, my body has thanked me for this decision.

One thing I’ve learned in over fifteen years of world travel, is to always bring my own coffee, regardless of where I am going.  On this trip, I even brought my trusty collapsible teakettle and a coffee cup, too.  Any hotel or restaurant will give you hot water if you ask for it, but I really love my coffee before I have to interact with other humans, and I am pretty sure they would appreciate that too, if they knew what the alternative was.  Only one cup, though, because I want to need a bathroom as little as possible when travelling!

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The roads out here can be an adventure! We’re cruising around in very large Toyotas that can handle pretty much anything thrown at them, but there still are moments my heart is in my throat.

I hope you’ve enjoyed a few tidbits from tea country. I’m not sure how often I’ll write here, but feel free to ‘follow’ on the right hand side, and you’ll be notified whenever I post something new.